I am not a chef, but the perpetual seeming lock-down has gotten us down trying new things. Through a close friend from childhood, I came across the recipe for cooking onions. He tried the recipe and we shared some funny laughs about the simplicity and hardness of the recipe.
Anyway, the recipe is an early nineteenth century (dated from 1808) one and comes from the book by Maria Rundell (an early edition, pictured above just says “a lady”). Severin Currell writing in The Guardian calls her the “original domestic goddess”.
Mrs. Rundell is very big on being thrifty and avoiding wasting food. In fact, the introduction begins:
The mistress of a family should always remember that the welfare and good management of the house depend on the eye of the superior; and consequently that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste may be avoided; and this attention is of more importance now that the price of every necessary of life is increased to an enormous degree.
She gives advice for picking roosters in the market, how to cook shrimp, how to make mutton taste like venison, and so on…
The title of the book itself — New System of Domestic Cookery: Formed Upon Principles of Economy; And Adapted to the Use of Private Families — is remarkable goodness from the early industrial age.
I suspected some Indian roots. and there indeed there was. In 1844, the Foreign Quarterly Review commented that,
it is exclusively a middle class book, and intended for the rich bourgeoisie. The compiler, Mrs. Rundell, had spent the early part of her life in India, and the last edition of the work is enriched with many receipts of Indian cookery.
I can imagine young Ms. Rundell as English Mem in the Raj, in wide-brimmed hats and parasols, learning the multitudinous recipes. The book was wonderfully popular, sold half-million copies and 67 editions. Then, like all things, eventually fell out of favor. I have been down the rabbit hole of the internet.
Mrs. Rundell is credited with the first recipe for Scotch Eggs. See her recipe,…
Boil hard five pullet’s eggs, and without removing the white, cover completely with a fine relishing forcemeat, in which, let scraped ham or chopper anchovy bear a due proportion. Fry of a beautiful yellow brown, and serve with a good gravy in the dish.
Compare it with Bon Appetit’s “evolved” recipe now.
Step 1
Place 4 eggs in a small saucepan; add cold water to cover. Bring to a boil; remove from heat, cover, and let stand for 3 minutes. Carefully drain, then fill pan with ice water to cool eggs. Gently crack shells and carefully peel under cold running water. Place eggs in a bowl of cold water; cover and chill until cold. DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled.
Step 2
Place flour in a wide shallow bowl and crushed corn flakes in another wide shallow bowl. Divide sausage into 4 equal portions. Pat 1 portion of sausage into a thin patty over the length of your palm. Lay 1 soft-boiled egg on top of sausage and wrap sausage around egg, sealing to completely enclose. Repeat with remaining sausage and eggs.
Step 3
Whisk remaining 2 eggs in a medium bowl to blend. Working gently with 1 sausage-wrapped egg at a time, dip eggs into flour, shaking off excess, then coat in egg wash. Roll in corn flakes to coat. DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep refrigerated, uncovered.
Step 4
Attach a deep-fry thermometer to side of a large heavy pot. Pour in oil to a depth of 2” and heat over medium heat to 375°. Fry eggs, turning occasionally and maintaining oil temperature of 350°, until sausage is cooked through and breading is golden brown and crisp, 5–6 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer eggs to paper towels to drain. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Serve warm with mustard.
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So, here’s the recipe for Baked Onions.
Roast Onions. Should be done with all the skins on it. They steep well alone with salt only, or cold butter, or with roast potatoes or with beetroots.
That’s it. There is something to be said about having infinite degrees of freedom!